Wtb drive shaft

[and3rs88]

Wondering if anyone has a mint drive shaft spare and what it'll cost me?

After some nasty wheel hop last time I drove the FD something let loose inside my drive shaft and is rattling around and shaking the whole car. Can't even find a new one on the net besides the aftermarket aluminium ones from USA

Cheers,

Anders

[Black Talon]

Main prop shaft, or rear driveshafts?


If it's the main shaft, pull it out and take it to a local driveshaft shop. The only moving parts are universal joints, and most of those are common sizes. Any local shop should be able to fix it.

You will need to remove a few underbody trim panels, and the factory alloy braces across the tunnel, but it's all pretty straight forward. 4 bolts at the diff end, and the whole thing slips out of the gearbox spline.

CAUTION: You will possibly lose gearbox oil when you pull it out. Either drain it first, or be prepared to catch it when it spills. Don't forget to replace it after the shaft is back in.


Rear shafts are a little more involved to remove, and have CV joints instead of universal joints. But again, and local specialist should be able to fix them. Removing these technically means replacing the rear wheel bearings as well.

[and3rs88]

Yeah the main prop shaft I mean sorry. I pulled the shaft out this morning thinking it'll be a uni joint broken but it's actually something inside the shaft. There must be another shaft inside and a weld has let go on one side by the sound of it, when I get another one I'll cut it open and see what the hell is in there.

I jacked it from the rear only and didn't loose any oil so either the rear of gearbox was just high enough or I'm low on oil, she smells pretty rank though haha.

Found the part number - PF0325100 they've gone from like $400 up to $1k or $700+ for a driveshaft shop alloy one

[Black Talon]

Yeah, OK, that's weirdness. Definately cut that thing open when you find a replacement, I'd be very interested to see what that could be.

Be warned, if someone is selling one from an auto car, they are not compatible with a manual. Different length and different rear flange.

[gotorx7]

It sounds more like you've lost a couple teeth off the crown to me.. could be wrong but..

[and3rs88]

That was my first thought exactly, doesn't seem like it after inspection though, no noise or clunking at all under 30 kph then it'd start to sound like the drive shaft is slapping around in the tunnel, turns smooth by hand or at low speed. I ran it up on stands to isolate which brought me to the prop shaft and after pulling it out and giving it a shake I'm about 95% sure that's the cause. It is really wierd though!

[Suprspt]

Think I've got a couple of tailshafts, but need to check I'd have a spare. I'm sure James would have multiples as they're not really a consumable. I might try Sir20b too, postage from down here will probably be more than the tailshaft going by recent packages.

Having had tailshafts made in the past, less than convinced the local guys can balance to save their lives, up there I'd expect you'd be in a worse position!

[and3rs88]

Do yas think it's worth just buying a new aluminium shaft for the sake of having a new shaft with new uni joints? Doing a bit of research there seems to be some confusion on the net about the oem shaft uni's not being replaceable?!

[Black Talon]

Do yas think it's worth just buying a new aluminium shaft for the sake of having a new shaft with new uni joints? Doing a bit of research there seems to be some confusion on the net about the oem shaft uni's not being replaceable?!

I've never seen a uni joint that can't be replaced before. Sure, I've never had a mega close look at an FD driveshaft before, but I don't imagine it being any different to every other car in the world with uni joints in the shaft.

Don't get me wrong, it's possible. But the easiest way to find out is to take the thing to a driveshaft shop like I mentioned before. If it can't be done, they will tell you. If it can be done, they will tell you how much.

[Suprspt]

Most of the places down here would turn-off the welds and replace it entirely with something more common is my bet....uni of choice used to be commodore.....and you get to redrill the companion flange.

Had a look yesterday, couldn't find 2, extras were rx8 carbon fibre wrapped ones - as said, wjp must have more than a few. Unless previous owners have been doing drag launches or big miles, most secondhand ones you're likely to find, have barely been used when you think of more reliable cars that do several hundred thousand km on original unis.

[and3rs88]

Good point cheers for the advice fellas, getting one off wjp for a good price. Think I'll spend the extra money on finally doing my poor diff bushes and try to get rid of that wheel hop. Will cut open the old shaft when I get a chance and update

[gav240z]

Just watched this the other night.

[and3rs88]

Umm so yeah, as many probably expected there's nothing in the driveshaft, I cut it open. The clunking I was hearing/feeling was from the uni echoing through the shaft. My bad.

I started it up without the shaft (and no exhaust he he) to make sure there was no noise or shaking from the engine or box and she was tight as. Seem to be on the right track replacing the shaft for now, still a slight chance for diff I guess